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		<title>Splash on Infrared Heating Tubes</title>
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			<lastBuildDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2026 13:16:41 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>IPX4 splash proof heater</title>
				<link>http://ir-tubes.com/en/posts/ipx4-splash-proof-heater/</link>
				<pubDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2026 13:16:41 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ir-tubes.com/images/7190864113f37cc853e04b5c540dd92c.jpg&#34; alt=&#34;IPX4 splash proof heater&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;keeping-your-infrared-heaters-dry-and-alive&#34;&gt;Keeping Your Infrared &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;Heaters&lt;/a&gt; Dry (and Alive)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let&amp;rsquo;s be honest: water and high-voltage electricity are a nightmare pairing. If you&amp;rsquo;re working in a spot with steam, mist, or the occasional accidental splash, a standard infrared heater is basically a ticking time bomb. It’ll either short out immediately or the filaments will just give up the ghost way too soon.&#xA;That’s exactly why we built our IPX4-rated heaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2 id=&#34;what-ipx4-actually-means-for-you&#34;&gt;What &amp;ldquo;IPX4&amp;rdquo; actually means for you&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In plain English, IPX4 means the unit can take a splash from any direction and keep on ticking.&#xA;We did this by focusing on the spots where things usually go wrong—the electrical junctions and the lamp housing. Most of the time, a heater fails because moisture sneaks into the connection points, causing rust or sparks. We stopped that by using splash-proof gaskets and sealing the cable entries tight.&#xA;Then there&amp;rsquo;s the mist. It&amp;rsquo;s a silent killer.&#xA;When tiny droplets land on a scorching hot quartz tube, you get &amp;ldquo;thermal shock.&amp;rdquo; The glass cracks, the seals pop, and you&amp;rsquo;re left with a broken heater. Our setup stops those droplets from pooling around the element in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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